Rome

Piazza Navona at Christmas

In December, Piazza Navona becomes Rome’s festive living room, lit for the long wait for La Befana.

A lit-up carousel at the Christmas fair in Piazza Navona, RomeA lit-up carousel at the Christmas fair in Piazza Navona, Rome
the day

Rome’s festive living room.

Wander Piazza Navona in December for lights, handmade gifts and the gentle hum of the Befana market, a Roman winter tradition best enjoyed without a schedule. Come in the late afternoon and stay as the square shifts from daylight into its evening glow.

A Christmas tree glowing before a church at night in Rome
The square

Rome’s most theatrical room, dressed for winter.

The fountains and Baroque façades remain as grand as ever, while December brings another layer of lights, music, stalls and the bustle of people choosing gifts. Arrive as the sky turns blue, when the lights begin to bring the square to life.

The tradition

A Roman Christmas ritual, not just a market.

The Festa di Piazza Navona continues through to Epiphany, when La Befana arrives. Handmade decorations, sweets and small gifts are part of the tradition, as is the pleasure of joining a ritual the city has repeated for generations. Browse slowly and let the atmosphere carry you through the square.

The evening

End with something warm, somewhere nearby.

After the market, step into a café for a hot chocolate or a late glass of wine. Winter evenings in Rome rarely need much more than quiet streets, warm light and a little time to enjoy them.

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